• Roadcrafter Features
• The "Ride More" Guarantee
• A Mix-and-Match Color Selector Updated!
• FAQ
• Custom Alteration Options
• Contrasting Color Thread Option
• The Complete Size and Fit Guide
• A Self-Fit Calculator
• Hi-Viz 3.0 Guide
• Verifying Fit after Try-on
• The Roadcrafter Owners Guide
• TF Pad Removal and Replacement
• Reviews

• All Roadcrafters are available in more than sixty in-stock sizes, with a wide range optional fitting-alterations if needed. Men’s models are stocked by suit (chest) size in ‘short’, ‘regular’ and ‘tall’ versions. Women’s models are stocked by dress size in short, regular and tall versions, too. Inventoried stock sizes are shipped within 24 hours.
• Roadcrafters are intended to fit nicely over a layer of street clothing, so if you wear a size 40R men's blazer or sport coat…or a size 8L women’s dress…select the same size Aerostich jacket or suit. If you’re unsure of your size, see the sizing chart guidelines, or contact us (218-722-1927, service@aerostich.com)
  and we’ll help you get the right fit. We will ask for information about
  your height, weight, chest/suit or dress size, and your jeans or pants
  ‘waist x inseam’ size.
• Find detailed information about ordering optional alterations, non-stock colors and specialized features here. Standard suit colors are mix & match Black, Grey, Hi-Viz, and Tan body areas with your choice of Black, Grey, Silver, Hi-Viz abrasion areas. Request free color swatches here.

What is the Difference Between a Roadcrafter Classic and an R3?

The RC Classic is the original Aerostich suit and it has been continually manufactured, updated and refined for over thirty-five years now. It is a fully lined garment and was created to be an armored coverall intended primarily for commuting applications. It is constructed the same way a leather rider’s suit is, but in textiles so it is lighter and cooler to wear. For this reason (the way it is designed to be put together) it isn’t perfectly waterproof. But still it has always worked better than conventional leather gear in most hot and wet situations. Roadcrafter Classic suits have been worn world-wide and they continue to satisfy thousands of riders which is why it remains available. It is comfortable and functional. Some of our customers are now on their third or fourth one.

The R-3 is the third generation Aerostich one-piece coverall. It’s unlined like a lot of today’s most technical and lightweight waterproof outdoor gear, and it does pass the rigorous certification for rainwear. We sometimes think of it as an armored and highly abrasion-resistant rain suit. Its impact armor is attached to the inside with adhesively bonded hook-and-loop. This suit wears slightly cooler in really hot conditions absent a separate inner lining. There are numerous other small refinements the RC Classic does not have.

In summary, the RC Classic has become an actual classic just as ‘Levi’s 501’ denim jeans and many other long-popular products. Many riders like it exactly the way it is. The R-3 waterproof one-piece suit is what we make today for the same intended applications but incorporating the technology and experience we now have.

Start with your height and body length…For a person’s given overall height, some will have longer-bodies-with-shorter-legs, and others have shorter-bodies-with-longer-legs. After a suit is sewn and completed there is no simple or cost-effective way to then make the garment’s torso length (the distance from crotch to collar) shorter or longer. A few specialized alterations can help slightly (see 'ellipse' below), but they are imperfect Band-Aids.

Garage mechanics and others who wear coveralls for a living know a lowish crotch and baggy seat means they’ll be able to raise their arms upward fully and comfortably. When one does this arm-raising to horizontal, the entire torso section of a one-piece suit slides upwards about 1.5". The suit’s bulky shoulder impact armor move it that way. And when you lower your arms, the suit body area should slide back downward smoothly.

Aerostich gear is graded by chest size (38, 40, 42, 44, etc) and each is available in short (S), regular (R) and long (L) versions. If you are borderline height-wise, part-way between an ‘S’ and an ‘R’, go with the longer body length of the ‘R’. And if you are somewhere between an ‘R’ and an ‘L’, go with the longer body of the ‘L’. The extra body length in each size is about 1.3" greater. And if you ride a sport bike, or are an especially active rider and want maximum freedom-of-movement, a slightly longer body sometimes works and feels a bit better.

Leg and sleeve lengths should be adjusted as needed after your body/torso length has been determined. For a comfortable and correct fit with your raised arms out to your side horizontally (both at the same time), you should still have very slight room at the crotch.

The suit’s body, sleeve and leg diameters are exactly the same for each ‘S’, ‘R’ and ‘L’ version of a particular size. For example, the dimensions around your body of the 38S, 38L and 38R are identical. The circumferences are exactly the same.

A riding suit’s leg lengths are correct if, when standing normally, the hem breaks (wrinkles) slightly against the front of your riding boot just above the foot’s arch, and the top edge of the TF knee impact armor cup is positioned near the center of your kneecap. Then, as you sit on your bike, the hem will rise about 1.5” and the knee armor cup will slide upward and center itself over your bent knee.

A riding suit’s sleeves are the correct length if, when standing normally with your arms hanging loosely by your sides, they end about mid-way between your knuckles and your wrist, measured at the center back of your hand. The center of the TF impact armor elbow cup should also be centered on, or very slightly below, your elbow.

Specialized Motorcycle Configuration Considerations:

For comfort with low handle bars and higher positioned rear-set footrests, all one-piece riding suits will fit better with the ‘Extra Forward Rotated Sleeve’ alterations, and may also benefit from an ‘ellipse’ added to the center of the back. In addition, an ‘expanded knee’ alteration is available which provides slightly more space for knee armor when knees are bent more sharply.

For active off-road riding requiring maximum freedom-of-movement and upper-arm ease, underarm ‘V’ gussets may be added to increase upper sleeve diameter and provide extra room across upper chest and shoulder areas.

Learning Your New Roadcrafter Classic or R 3 Suit: Tips and Helpful Hints.

Yes, there is a break in period…Your new suit may feel stiff compared to more familiar types of clothing. You’ll experience improvements in comfort, fit and function the more you ride, from first few miles and onward (nearly indefinitely). All Roadcrafter and R-3 suits continue to improve with added wear and miles.

The best way to put on an R-3 or Roadcrafter Classic suit is to hold it in front of you by it’s ‘chest’,one hand on each side of the fully separated main zipper. Then, lower the garment slightly while moving it slightly to the right and raise your right leg and put it into the right leg of the suit. Next, pull the entire garment upward, release your right hand from the front of the suit and put it into the right sleeve, exactly as you would pull on a jacket. Lastly, your left arm goes into the left sleeve (just where you’d expect) and you are ready to start zipping up (…down, actually).

This does take a bit of practice, but it quickly becomes natural, fast and easy. It’s the best way to get into a one-piece coverall with the least amount of bending and contorting, and the garment also spends the least amount of time dragging on the ground. That’s why it’s two main entry zippers are on the 'inside', instead of the outside (as on work coveralls, where the zippers are on the outside of the legs and the front zipper only goes to the crotch). This extra ease is important because your suit's intended purpose is as an ‘all-in-one’ protection and comfort solution for daily commuting and short-hop A-to-B riding. For when you want better protection than your street clothing provides with less rigmarole than changing into conventional gear.

To more quickly learn the suit’s unusual main zipper, which starts nearly under one's chin,practice in front of a mirror a few times to memorize how to hold and engage the two main zipper sliders. These slider ‘handles’ are captured close together between the knuckles of the first three fingers of your right hand. Your opposite (left) hand then slides the other side of the zipper’s end into both sliders. After being fully inserted, release the two slider handles from between your knuckles and grasp only the lower slider’s handle. Then zip it downward to about your knee. At that point either lift and bend your left leg slightly and complete the zip, or bend over slightly and zip to the bottom. Most suit wearers seldom (or never) use the snap at the bottom of the zipper.

The removable collar hold-open magnets make it easier to ventilate the suit in hot conditions and are especially useful if you ride a motorcycle with a fairing or windshield, but they do have limitations. If your local climate isn't always warm, remove and put the magnets on the side of your tool box or refrigerator. Otherwise you might sometimes end up fighting with them as they try to keep the collar open when you wish to keep it closed.

Your new Aerostich suit will wear perfectly when the weather is nice, and will feel even better when the weather is lousy. You may discover that riding places in bad weather, when nobody else is out riding, is fun. It can be a little extra-satisfying to be on two wheels when everyone else on the road has no idea why you are out there in the first place…much less that you are reasonably comfortable. And if you’ve ever thought some non-riders might have considered you slightly ‘off’ because you enjoyed riding in the first place, wait until you walk into a workplace or grocery store wearing your dripping Aerostich suit after riding there thru a severe rainstorm. No amount of nice friendly smiling on your part will be enough. So enjoy the ride.

Details Make a Difference: Heated Gear Power Cord Port

A hidden cord port is part of all one piece Roadcrafter Classics and R-3s. It's a pass-thru for a short wire that connects any electrically heated clothing to the outside of the garment. The other side of this pass-thru is inside the slash pocket located behind the lower flapped pocket on the left side.

How it works is you position either a coily power cord (#172) or jumper cord (#162) so the end of the cord that connects to the electric garment is dangling out of this port on the inside of the suit. The other end is 'stored' in the slash pocket that forms behind the lower left flapped pocket on the outside of the suit.

When you are ready to ride somewhere with an electric garment beneath the suit, you first put on the electric garment. Then you put on the suit. Then you connect the power cord or jumper cord to the electric garment. Then you zip the suit closed around you. Then you get on the motorcycle (or stand close to it) and remove the other end of the cord from the slash pocket located behind the flapped pocket and plug it into the power on the motorcycle. Then you ride away warm and comfortable.

By far the best POV (point of view) location, for the best film result, because it shows the rider’s hands, handlebar and motorcycle’s instruments at the bottom of the frame. There’s no comparison to other mount locations. Far nicer video results than are possible with a helmet cam, bar cam or tank cam mount. See the image below and short video. You won’t be disappointed.

PS - We’ve been offering this mount for ten years in our ‘optional alterations’ product menu. Few noticed it. Then, in the fall of 2021 the ’shoulder mount' was introduced as an exciting and better way to get on-bike video by professional MotoGP video creators. It’s not new. It’s been available here for a long time. #344 $35.00.

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